Since our daughter, Little Big Chief, was four weeks old, I’ve taken her on a walk just about every day. That’s approximately 150 walks. And on each and every walk, I’ve had to answer the question, an average of three times per walk, “what happened to her face?” So, conservatively, that’s 450 times since my baby was born that I’ve had to explain the tiny red birthmark on her cheek. After I explain, the concerned parties usually utter a sympathetic “tsk tsk” and a “haram!” and then continue to coo and make funny faces at her.
The first time I heard someone say “haram” about my baby, I understood it with the connotations it has in Pakistan, where using the term has an effect not unlike a stout German man with muttonchops and a Prussian helmet shouting “VERBOTEN!” in your face. Here in Lebanon, it appears to have much more benign colloquial usages, including “that’s too bad.” And the fact that anyone who gets close enough to Little Big Chief to notice her birthmark does so because they’re drawn, moth-like, to her gloriously radiating cuteness, beaming several meters in every direction, makes this less disturbing an occurrence than it may sound.
In fact, I’ll even go so far as to make a bold generalization about an entire citizenry, something I try to avoid doing (except in the privacy of my living room, of course): Lebanese love babies. They’re completely, utterly, I would even say exorbitantly, smitten with babies. Since LBC was born, she has been cooed at, tickled, and held by more complete strangers than I would like to admit. I mean dozens: dozens of pedestrians, shopkeepers, taxi drivers, construction workers, building concierges, waitresses, checkout clerks, and flight attendants. She’s had her toes kissed by a young woman who works in the discount department store where I buy baby clothes. She’s been carried by servers and introduced to other diners, who put down their forks (or hookah pipes) to greet her. Men, too, babble to her in gibberish and break out their best falsettos in the hopes of a smile. The first few times someone asked to hold her, I gave her up reluctantly, prepared to brave the awkwardness of unholstering the disinfecting wet-wipes if necessary. Yes, each of these encounters includes a query about her birthmark, but it’s always secondary and quickly forgotten in the face of this 16.5 lb. individual’s buoyant and buoying charisma.
Having gotten accustomed to this sort of treatment, which I admit made me feel a bit as though I was conveying a little Lama around Beirut in a wobbly red stroller, the five weeks we spent in New Jersey this summer were eye-opening. It was a mite jarring at first that no one even seemed to notice when Her Littleness rolled into the mall or grocery store or bus station, big eyes aglow. A South Asian gentleman in Toms River did tell us that her birthmark was auspicious, but I think he just wanted us to buy a hotdog from his Nathan’s stand in the food court. Otherwise, it was for me a process of remembering that in America, by and large, we tolerate the presence of babies. They’re charming, certainly, as long as they don’t babble too loudly or cry or shit their diapers in close proximity. We certainly don’t go around kissing some anonymous baby’s toes, especially if there might be cops around. And never, ever do we ask to hold someone’s infant.
In the U.S., asking a stranger if you can hold their baby seems to be a sin somewhere between venial and mortal, and at best a blunder on par with cleaning your spouse’s ears in public. Since I didn’t concern myself with such issues before entering, inexorably, into The Baby Conversation, I owe this insight to the ladies who populate the New Mom message boards (holdovers from the Pregnancy message boards), who routinely report how predatory old bitties force them to utter passive-aggressive gems like, “That’s sooo sweet of you, but my child is just getting over the sniffles, and I wouldn’t want her to make you ill.” I hear they even make baby t-shirts and signs for strollers that say things like, Kindly Fuck Off, You Germy Imbecile.
Had I been living in the U.S. when LBC was a newborn, I might even have bought such a sign, so paralyzed with terror was I every second of the day. (I remember becoming furious once, absolutely berserk with rage, at a mosquito who landed on her face. I wish I could have killed that mosquito twice.) And it’s not just hygiene that concerns parents, but also, thanks to network news, the specter of being surrounded by creeps and misfits, all of whom wish to cuddle your baby in the service of some sinister wish-fulfillment. Here in Beirut, however, it never even occurred to me that I could say no. As long as the asker didn’t exhibit a wheezy, tuberculous hack or too much chest hair underneath too many undone buttons, the baby was available for up to two minutes of holding. With me casting a large, vigilant shadow, of course.
What’s really interesting, though, is that during the entire six weeks that we spent on the East Coast this summer, not once did a single stranger ask about her birthmark. In fact, we spent several hours with a couple of friends who met our girl for the first time, and neither of them even acknowledged the two bright red little inkspots, or the dime-sized bruise underneath the skin that accompanies them. Finally, I mentioned it myself, which felt shabby and no doubt sounded terribly insecure, only to say that it would fade and then disappear within the next few years. And my friends, bless them, barely registered a reaction. As if to say, what birthmark?
I confess it is unquestionably tiresome to have to explain over and over something perceived as a flaw on my daughter’s face, a face that elicits from me more spontaneous affection and protectiveness than I knew I had in me, to people I don’t even know. As another mother told me, it will be bittersweet when my child’s birthmark disappears, because I’ve come to know it as an indivisible part of what makes her so very beautiful.
But I’ve also grown to love whatever the cultural impulse Lebanese possess that, for instance, makes a deaf octagenarian in a three-piece linen suit and a straw fedora ask to hold my daughter while he sits under an awning in front of a cafe. He says something in Arabic, holds out his arms, and I hand her over so that the two of them can get acquainted for a moment and watch the pedestrians go by. The baby looks looks at him, looks at me, puts her hands on his chin or his nose or his sleeve, and after thirty seconds or so, he hands her back to me. Then she and I continue down the sidewalk until we encounter the next person who wants an audience with her.
E.g.
Continuing with my previous post, if you tend to write about Pakistan, you have this sort of thing to deal with. The stink of rage emanating from the comments section is suffocating, although in this case it’s not aimed at the writer but at his subject. Is it just me, or is more than one commenter essentially pushing for wreaking some sort of genocidal revenge against the entire nation? Are Americans really and truly convinced that all Pakistanis are complicit in the work of extremists? And how glibly they proclaim it! I can barely stand to read these sorts of comments (so naturally, I can’t stop myself). Is there any point in trying to shed light on the situation in Pakistan if this is how people think?
If you read the comments, you might notice my own rather flaccid attempt to defuse some of the madness. Pointless.
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